Five years ago I was not prepared for what I was about to experience when I stepped out of our car into the first Spanish place I had ever been, the bustling city of Barcelona. As a fourteen year old having taken one and a half years of Spanish I was excited to experience the culture and practice my new Spanish skills. You can only imagine my shock and disappointment when, after walking through the city, I realized many people weren’t speaking Spanish and I couldn’t read the brightly colored signs in store windows.
This time, however, I was ready. I stepped off the plane at BCN International Airport armed with my recently acquired knowledge of the Catalan region. Having once been a separate kingdom from the rest of Spain, this territory has a long story of rich history and influences. Today the Catalan region still has its own language and culture, and many of its citizens want to preserve its unique way of living. Currently, the region has its own parliament and government, but is still a part of the greater Spanish state, being under the control of the national government in Madrid for large issues such as foreign affairs, but having jurisdiction over regional issues. (http://www.villasbarcelona.com/travelguide/history.php)
On our first full day in Spain and Barcelona, it became clear how the tension between the two regions and the unique culture of the Catalans is exemplified in some of the most mundane aspects of daily life. A bit down the road from where we started our first tour of the day we stopped on a street corner so that our tour guide could explain a little about Barcelona. As I gazed at our surroundings, I noticed a small green stand on the opposite corner. This newsstand was bustling with people picking up their morning papers, but what caught my eye were the colorful football scarves waving in the wind. I immediately noticed the five to one ratio of Barcelona football scarves to Real Madrid scarves. I realized that this was not a coincidence. Barcelona and Madrid have one of the greatest football rivalries in the world because of the continuing tensions between the Catalan and Castilian regions. In this region football is not just a game, but it is something bigger. It is the semi-peaceful way for these two age-old rivals to battle it out. While most people in the region don’t advocate for succession of Catalan from Spain, they are proud of their heritage and culture and football is a way for them to express their five hundred year-old allegiances. (http://www.fcbarcelona.com/web/english/index.html)
After a long day of touring, instead of gallivanting off to the beach, my roommates and I decided to explore the city a bit more. Having seen pictures of it on tons of postcards, we decided to venture out to see the famous fountains near La Plaça d’Espanya. After a metro ride, almost getting pick-pocketed, and a decent walk, we eventually made it to the Spanish center of Barcelona. This center though, was well off the beaten path and appeared to be populated mostly by tourists. While the fountain show was beautiful, the area didn’t seem to show the true Barcelona. Back near our hotel, we walked through La Plaça Catalunya, the Catalan center of Barcelona. This square, on the other hand, was full of life. Situated right in the heart of the city at the beginning of Las Ramblas, the plaza had a healthy mix of tourists and locals alike. Clearly, while the elegant and grand Plaça d’Espanya may be considered the center of the city by those in Madrid, the crowded and slightly more ordinary looking Plaça Catalunya is the true center of life in Barcelona. (http://www.aviewoncities.com/barcelona/placadespanya.htm)
As the evening wound on our stomachs started grumbling and we decided to find some food. Walking down Las Ramblas it became very clear that the Catalan culture, and especially the food, has been heavily influenced by the geographical location of the city near the Mediterranean. Nearly every dish was made with seafood of some sort… seafood paella, seafood pasta, seafood salad. You name it, they had it. The food in this region in particular is an important part of the national identity. The ingredients used, the technique to make it, and the time of day certain foods are eaten is an important part of the culture. (http://www.aboutbarcelona.com/barcelona/food-drink.asp)
As I reflected on my day it became more and more clear to me how important the Catalan culture is to the people of Barcelona. It dawned on me that many aspects of the “hecho differential” (the difference between the Catalans and the Castilians) can be seen just by walking through Barcelona. From their lack of Madrid football scarves to their choice for the center of the city to their seafood influenced dishes, the Catalans have a distinct and important culture. While they consider themselves to be a part of the Spanish state they will always be, first and foremost, Catalans.
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