Suitable Site for a Sailor

So you want to make your city known to the world? Perhaps you should invest in a massive renovation of your local port in order to host an international competition for the longest contested over trophy in all of sports. That is exactly what Valencia, Spain decided to do in order to host the 2007 America’s Cup, which turned out to be one of history’s most noteworthy America’s Cups. (http://32nd.americascup.com/en/multimedia/games/vs/index.php) This was the first time the America’s Cup was held in a European nation and also the first time the Cup was won by a team from a landlocked country, Switzerland. The America’s Cup remains the Mecca of sailing competitions worldwide and has experienced a dramatic growth over the last 20 years. Its origins date back to 1851, but it had been a relatively low key competition on the global scale until 1983 when Australia won the Cup, taking it from the United States and ending their 132 year winning streak. (http://www.americascup.com/feature-stories/history/) Since then this competition, held every 3 to 6 years, has grown enormously. When the America’s Cup finally hit Valencia, Spain in 2007
it saw 12 competitors from 10 countries and 5 continents that had sailed racing for the coveted Cup. (http://www.portamericascup.com/en/event.php) To learn more about the America’s Cup, including how the competitors are decided and who is eligible visit the current America’s Cup website at http://www.americascup.com/.

This was perhaps a perfect marriage of sport and politics. The America’s Cup has been growing in popularity but is still struggling to become a mainstream event. Meanwhile Valencia, already a commerce epicenter, has been trying to rebuild itself as a modern tourist city. Together Valencia and the America’s Cup tried to create a tourist destination of the competition by holding it in Europe for the first time. At the time it worked tremendously, bringing in many teams, supporters and revenue. But since then there have been struggles for Valencia’s port. The question has become, what do you do with an empty competition port? One answer is to re-use it, as Valencia successfully did for the controversial 2010 America’s Cup (http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/news/07/cf/). But what else can be done with it? That question remains to be answered for certain, but Valencia has done some things already. The port is surrounded by a nice dining and shopping area and is only a few minute walk from the Valencia beach, another beautiful place to visit. http://www.valenciavalencia.com/beaches-in-valencia/arenas-cabanyal-beach.htm


The port itself has an interesting history. Having been the original trading port of the city, its water was not deep enough to remain the industrial port the city needed, so they built a wall in the harbor dividing the America’s Cup port from the industrial port. This move was as much political as it was practical because it allowed the Valencia government to build a tourist destination which would complement their beach and glamorous City of the Arts and Sciences (http://www.cac.es/?languageId=1) as major destinations. Of late they have also developed a Formula 1 race track which follows the outline of the harbor. The collection of these things is certainly worth visiting; though alone the America’s Cup port may not be a travel destination (there isn’t much to do but walk around it).

One cannot help but feel a sense of awe as they stand in the America’s Cup Port surrounded by the buildings erected to the 2007 and 2010 challengers. This Cup has been in the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and from 2007 to 2010, Switzerland. The race has run through two world wars and has been around longer than the modern Olympic Games. Amidst this, though, the America’s Cup is trying to build a bigger and better future. So to stand at the spot where both the city of Valencia and the America’s Cup have tried to build their future it is interesting to contemplate their respective successes. Valencia has undoubtly seen some increased tourism, but not much which has been sustainable. Meanwhile the America’s Cup sees more competitors every race.

After contemplating all of this in the America’s Cup Port the traveler can grab a nice lunch along the marina and then go to the beach for a swim in the Mediterranean. On the way they may also stop at the beachside gym for a nice workout.

A suggested playlist for your walk along the port and the beach:
Where the Boat Leaves From, Zac Brown Band
Take it Back, Jimmy Buffett (written after Australia took the Cup from the U.S. in 1983)
Boats to Build, Jerry Jeff Walker
If I Had A Boat, Lyle Lovett
I’m On A Boat, Andy Samburg & T. Pain

A Stroll in Sitges

A stroll through Sitges is the best way to view this small Spanish town. While it is known primarily for its beaches history is abundant in this small fishing village turned vacation destination. An imprint has been left by the Catalans, Romans, Arabs, phoneticians and many other cultures that passed through this shore land. Today the port is overshadowed by the 13 beaches along the coast. Beaches welcome you at the end of all the major walk ways through the city. As you near the main beach there is a monument for Bacardi which we realized was from Cubans who had gone to the Americans then brought money back to Sitges. During the time of free commerce in the Americas Sitges began building it's image with their own small commercial fleet that is now replaced by the yacht club and sporting boats.
As we headed around the old church out on the rocks overlooking the boats we saw an old door way into what we thought would be the church courtyard, but was actually a cemetery. The cemetery is built up in layers of family slots along the walls then a large area in the middle filled with grandiose pantheons and monuments to Sitges families. It was very well kept and reflected different personalities in the monuments and different architecture some had pillars and gods in a more neo classical approach, some were art noveau and others were very naturalistic like a giant cracked and mossy table, though the majority were in a Catalan take on art nouveau sculpture from the early 1900's.
We had marked on our map where significant spots were located that we wanted to reach on our walk, only we did not label the destinations so we had fun guessing which where the importance spots and their history. Some we could work out such as the Bacardi monument and other finds left us confused such as the connection of the last name Ferrat which was prominent throughout the city and in the cemetery but was also the name of their most famous museum. It turns out that Cau Ferrat the museum is named for “place made of Iron” in Spanish, but iron working is well known in Catalan regions so maybe that is the connection?
Looking down from this church complex beneath the hills yet overlooking the sea all the beaches appear very similar with their sandy smooth beaches and rolling waves yet they have actually taken on individual personalities. While the clientele is fluid and the local population very welcoming the beaches have stratified along imagined borders. There is the main recreational beach, the gay beaches and those for the 'nude'. Sitges has a very high gay visiting population and you can see that the city has started to form itself to the visiting populations. Up from the 'gay' beach there are establishments and stores that cater to them although the culture is very integrated and we saw many pride banners throughout the city. The gayinsitges.com website actually refers to Sitges as 'Catalonia's famous gay coastal resort.” The take pride in their acceptance of the foreign population and their relaxed atmosphere, you can find many people that speak both English and German because of their focus on tourism. They also take great pride in the appearance of this quaint town and along the white washed houses ran a tidy blue Mediterranean style border. Even the street signs were made of painted tiles that reflected the Arabic influence, their artistic past and their pride in history. If you wish to continue your walk outside the bounds of the beach and city center the Natural Park of Garraf offers a refreshing alternative to the more popular beaches immediately outside the city center. Although with the light sea spray and beautiful blue waters it is easy to pass days only wandering between the city streets and the local beaches.

Cemetery of Sitges info: http://www.gaudiallgaudi.com/ACe06Sitges.htm
Short history and offers a listing of beaches broken by category: http://sitges.costasur.com/en/history.html
The easiest type of Sitges website to locate: http://www.gayinsitges.com/

Barça: més que un club

Arriving in Barcelona, for the second time in less than a week, I was in search of something apart of the culture that is not in museums or cathedrals. I knew that soccer was popular in Spain before arriving and thought that I might venture out to the local soccer stadium to try and understand why this sport has captured the minds of millions of Spaniards.

Emerging from the metro stop at Les Corts, I immediately began to search for the direction of the soccer stadium. After taking in my surroundings, I realized that it had to be close because most of the stores had posters of FC Barcelona in the windows. Additionally, many flags were hanging from the balconies of the nearby apartments. I saw a sign pointing in the direction of the stadium and only had to walk a couple of blocks before noticing the ominous stadium of Camp Nou. Walking towards the stadium I realized that the posters flags and other memorabilia, in the surrounding area, represented territoriality within the country of Spain and that FC Barcelona is not just a professional soccer team, but also a symbol of society and culture.

Camp Nou was opened to the public in 1957. Though, Camp Nou is not the original name given to the stadium. It was originally called Estadi de Barcelona. In 2000, due to high demand, the President of the football club decided to officially change the name to Camp Nou because that is what many of the fans called the stadium informally. UEFA, Europe’s soccer governing organizations, recognizes Camp Nou as an Elite Stadium because of its special features. The stadium has a capacity of over 98,000, making it the largest in Europe and the 11^th largest in the world. Within the stadium is a state of the art locker room with flat screen televisions, built-in Jacuzzi, and massage tables. Furthermore, a television broadcasting room, media conference room, and a press box that seats over 300 journalists. Due to its excellence, Camp Nou has hosted important games such as the 1982 World Cup and the UEFA Champions League final in 1999.

The Stadium reflects FC Barcelona in several ways. The top and bottom level seats are painted red, while the middle level is painted blue. This gives an effect of stripes, the design of the team’s jerseys. The stadium also reflects the religion of the Catalans. In the stadium, before the entrance onto the field, is a chapel in which the players use before games. Another unique feature is that in one particular section some of the seats are painted yellow and spell out the phrase “Més que un club” meaning, more than a club. That expression explained to me that FC Barcelona is not just a team that plays soccer, but something in which the Catalans hold closely embedded in their culture.

One of the tour guides said that when FC Barcelona plays Real Madrid it is known as El Clasico, game between the Castilians and Catalans. He also mentioned that it is one of the largest rivalries in all of the European soccer teams. This rivalry is huge because of the political history of Spain. When Francisco Franco was in power, FC Barcelona was the only symbol of pride in which the Catalans had while being purged by the government.

Camp Nou and FC Barcelona is just as important to the culture of the Catalans as anything else. It is considered to be religion in Barcelona, almost holy or sacred to those who live there. The tour guide also said that when Barcelona plays, whether at home or away, the whole city shuts down and everyone watches the game. From visiting the stadium I now understand what soccer means to the people of Barcelona. The dignified stadium shows how much the people of Cataluña care for their team and that FC Barcelona is indeed more than just a football club.

More Than A Club

With the World Cup starting and beginning to rile up people all over Europe (as well as the influence of the 4 boys I was with) I decided to take a tour of the famous Barca Football Stadium. Being the largest stadium in Europe it can hold 98,772 people and it serves as a symbol that is vital and cherished among the people.

When I first imagined visiting the stadium I thought we would be able to walk right in and glance around for 20 minutes. I quickly learned how important this stadium is to Barcelona and had to purchase a 17-euro ticket in order to take a look inside. We decided to do the self-tour guide and followed the marked off ropes throughout the stadium. What struck me was the shrine and glorification throughout the stadium that it devoted to its players.

“Mes que un club” is the slogan for the FC Barcelona football club, it means more than a club. The idea behind this slogan can be dated back to 1908 when the founder, Joan Gamper, was determine to save the club from being put to an end. This slogan redirected the future of the team and still serves as the clubs’ main focus after it was coined as their official slogan in 1968. The reason the club was founded, according to Gamper, was “for it to be a pro-Catalan club and actively serve its country.”

The political role and influence of the club are still as strong now as they were when it was founded; the team represents Catalan identity and nationalism. However, for those outside of Barcelona, the team serves to protect democratic rights and freedoms. This identity of the club is so deeply embedded within all of those that support it, it even states in the club statutes that the second objective of the club is “complementarily, the promotion and participation in social, cultural, artistic, scientific or recreational activities that are adequate and necessary for maintaining the public representation and projection that the club enjoys, the fruit of a permanent tradition of loyalty and service to club members, citizens and Catalonia”.

Unlike professional teams in the United States the teams that play in the World Cup do not get paid. To me this shows how much they take pride in this sport and how deep the meaning behind this sport is for them. The sense that I got from seeing the stadium and becoming indulged in the European atmosphere during the World Cup is that this team represents a part of their identity and their territory. On the FC Barcelona official website, it mentions how the team was identified with a certain political system during the Franco regime and fans went on strike and even refused to take trams after a game. Football is not only a means of entertainment, it has become so much a part of their culture and identity that certain beliefs and ideas that the team supports reflects their actions. The Barca football club truly is more than a club, it’s a reflection of their culture.

The FC Barcelona website gives a lot of information not only on the club, but about it’s history and what the club represents to it’s fans. http://www.fcbarcelona.cat

The Unfinished Masterpiece

Barcelona is more than just the second largest city in Spain with great weather and delicious Sangria. I learned that Barcelona began as a Roman city that houses an enormous amount of history, which is reflected in the ancient churches, streets, and buildings that can be found throughout the city. Barcelona has a strong Catalan cultural heritage especially seen through the architectural work of Antoni Gaudi.

Gaudi’s works is considered the leading cultural attraction of the city of Barcelona. I had the opportunity to visit the Park Guell a beautiful garden with architectural elements, which was designed by Gaudi. I enjoyed visiting the park so much that when I was released from the group study and was able to travel the city with my friends, we decided to go back and explore the park a little more. I noticed that the mosaic style of work brought color and life to the park and the architectural elements used to build the park seemed to flow right into nature and the environment in which it was built. Not only was the architecture amazing, but I also had the chance to see the incredible view of the city for a second time. It was breathtaking to see so many diverse views from one spot. The crystal blue Mediterranean Sea, the rugged mountains, and La Sagrada Familia. When I saw the amazing church towering over the city of Barcelona, I knew I had to visit this national symbol.


My friends and I were very excited to finally see the church up close. We hopped on the metro and when we arrived at our stop, Sagrada Familia, we walked up the steps not knowing how far we would have to walk to get to the church. Our mouths dropped to the ground in surprise, because sitting in front of us was a massive church that towered over the town almost touching the clouds in the sky. When we crossed the street and stood in front of the church we impressed by how many details there were on every inch of the enormous structure. It was interesting to see that hundreds of workers were working hard to finish the project that had begun in 1882. After snapping several pictures on the outside of the church, we decided to get in line to buy tickets to see the inside of the church. On the back of the ten-dollar ticket it said, “thank you for your help in building the church”. I decided to find a brochure to see if I could learn more about the church.

La Sagrada Familia is more than just a church. On March 19, 1882 the architect Francisco de Paula del Vilar began the project, which was privately funded by the Roman Catholic Church. Within a year, Gaudi was asked to take over the project. Gaudi completely changed the original direction of the church, which was to be a simple and traditional style, to express his deep religious beliefs and feelings of nationalism. He devoted 40 years to this project, which only ended with his death in 1926.

It is amazing that today the church is still being built, modeling the original ideas and architecture of Gaudi and should be finished some time soon in the 21st century. La Sagrada Familia has always been an expiatory church, which means that since the beginning the church has been built from donations. Gaudi said, “ The expiatory church of La Sagrada Familia is made by the people and is mirrored in them. It is a work that is in the hands of God and the will of the people”. I also learned that the spectacular architecture created by Gaudi was built to tell the story of the Catholic faith. There are eighteen bell towers, which represent Jesus, the Virgin Mary, the four evangelists and the twelve apostles. The interior was breath taking. We were only able to see certain parts of the church because of all of the construction. I stood inside for a very long time and still did not have enough time to see everything. I tried to make sense of all of the intricate details in the walls, on the ceiling and on the objects that filled the church. I was expecting to see a finished interior in the part we were able to see. To my surprise, there were still noisy machines that created dust and sparks and very loud noises that echoed in the church. I was astonished to learn that the completion of this church is not expected for between 30 and 80 more years. There is controversy about the construction of the Sagrada Familia. Some people believe that Gaudi would not approve of the materials used today. When visiting the site, I did notice a difference in the color of the stone used in the front versus the back of the building. I guess that can be expected for a project that spans centuries!

Today the church has become a universal symbol of identity for the people not only of Barcelona, but for the entire country. Gaudi did not want to build another Gothic cathedral. He went beyond this style and formed a whole new type of architecture with branched columns that look like trees and a roof of stone that would give the church a longer life. I hope to have the opportunity to visit Barcelona once the Sagrada Familia has been completed. The magnificent architectural structure is a must-see when visiting Barcelona. For more information check out the website below for more history, ticket prices, and even make a donation so you can help finish this amazing piece of architecture.
http://www.sagradafamilia.cat/

La Vida Loca

Traveling to Spain was more of an experience than I had ever imagined. I never thought that I could grasp so much culture in such a short amount of time. From the beginning of this program, especially in geography, we have learned about the differences between the different Spanish cities. After learning how Catalans speak a different language, and all of the struggles that Spain has had to create a balance in the country, I really thought more into the idea of nationalism that we talk about in class.
Throughout all of our classes in this program, we have focused on how nationalism and cultural identity are portrayed in each country. This study tour not only let me learn more about the different Spanish nationalities, but it also helped reinforce how much these people take pride in where they are from.
In Barcelona, there was a great sense of nationalism because throughout the city there were different monuments and statues of contributors of the city. Specifically, the Christopher Columbus statue stuck out to me because it showed Barcelona’s great pride in the world traveler and what he had brought to the city. This statue is also in a main center of town, Las Ramblas, which is often visited by tourists and is also a main attraction to the city. This statue represents the cities pride and culture because it was very large, and shows visitors their own nationality to the city of Barcelona.
When looking at this statue, an outsider may not be able to realize what it stands for. Before being notified that the statue was in fact of Columbus, I thought it was a very unique figure in the middle of the city.
The bronze statue of Columbus stands 7.2 meters, and on the bottom pedestal, there are four bronze winged Victories that take flight. Looking into these, I found that these bear the 4 corners of the world. When looking at the statue, I found that there is a plinth with eight bronze panels that depict important scenes of Columbus’s first voyage. These are very interesting and show off his first journey to the Americas. Some of these include: Columbus and his son asking for food at the La Rabida Monastery, Columbus explaining his plans to the monks of the La Rabida Monaster, Columbus meeting King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in Córdoba, Columbus appearing at the council gathering in the Monastery of San Esteban in Salamanca, Columbus meeting the King and Queen in Santa Fe, Columbus leaving port from Palos de la Frontera on 3 August 1492, Columbus's arrival in the New World, and Columbus greeting the King and Queen after his return in Barcelona.
This statue, which is also known as Colon, was constructed for the Exposicion Universal de Barcelona and is located at the spot where Columbus returned to Spain after his voyage to the Americas. When doing a little research, I learned that the Columbus statue is a reminder that Barcelona is where the voyager reported to Queen Isabella and Ferdinand after he discovered the Americas.
This statue idea came in 1856 by an artist who proposed that it be constructed entirely by Catalans. The fact that Catalans constructed this statue shows the pride that the Catalan people have for their country, and for this heroic monument
The statue itself is unique and can leave many tourists wondering its significance. When looking at the statue it looks like Columbus is pointing in one direction. He is actually pointing toward the New World with his right hand, while holding a scroll in the left hand. In his left hand, he is holding a scroll that says “Tierra”, which means land. The significance here is that he is actually pointing to the east towards his supposed home city of Genoa instead of toward the west where the New Worlds were located.
This statue tells you a lot about the cities nationality because it portrays the pride they have in the nations hero. This statue reminded me a lot about what we discuss in class, especially with our readings on how every culture is different. Going back to the readings on cultural identity, I think that the Christopher Columbus statue represents the identity of Barcelona’s culture.
This statue reminded me of the reading “Introduction: Food, Identity, and Diversity” in Culinary Cultures of Europe: Identity, Diversity and Dialogue because it made me think of how every culture has its differences. This statue showed that every culture and place is going to have something that they are proud of and something that is different. Although Columbus was a national hero in Spain, this specific spot is significant because this is where he reported to Queen Isabella and Ferdinand. This statue shows how the people of Barcelona are proud to have a hero like him represented in such a traffic filled region of the city.
The study tour was a great way for me to grasp the city of Barcelona’s identity and see how they take pride in the nations hero. I am glad that I got to see something like this because it gave me more perspective of what the cultural identity of the city is like.

This is no Publix

When I first arrived in Valencia, the only thing on my mind was the taste of a juicy, sweet, world-renowned Valencia orange. Because we had arrived on Sunday, I had to anxiously await my first trip to a fresh market in Valencia until the study tour the next day in order to try one of these amazing oranges. When I first stepped into the Central Market in the center of town, looked around, and took a deep breath in, I knew that I had found the perfect place to try one of these oranges.

When I was scanning the inside of the market, the first thing that really stuck out to me was the distinct smell. The fish market, located near the entrance to the left, filled my nostrils with the aroma of all kinds of fish and other seafood that live in the Mediterranean Sea. In front of me were aisles upon aisles of fresh fruit, vegetables, and meat that blended together with the fish to give a concoction of smells that I remember so clearly and now believe to be the true smell of Valencia.

As I began walking down the aisles of ceramic tiling glancing at all kinds of delicious fruit, vegetables, wine, and meat and searching for the best oranges available, I began to realize how important this market is to the people of Valencia and how it perfectly embodies their culture and who they are. Since Valencia is located on the water, has the perfect climate to grow citrus fruits and vegetables, and is irrigated extremely well, agriculture has been extremely important to the city of Valencia for hundreds of years and is one of the main reasons for their growth and success. Having this large, 1300 stall Central Market that was built in 1928 shows that agriculture is still at the heart of what Valencia is known for and that agriculture is still a very important part of their economy, culture, and lifestyle.

As I continued my adventures through the fresh produce, I couldn’t help but notice the crowds of people around me. Although many tourists also filled the market, the main thing that stuck out to me was the vast amount of locals mingling, talking, and socializing about their everyday lives. The people of Valencia were not only there to buy their fruits, vegetables, and meats for the week, but they were also there to socialize with friends and fellow merchants. This is one thing I noticed that distinctly separates the Central Market in Valencia from a typical US market. In the US, I typically go to a large chain supermarket, grab my imported, less than fresh fruit, weigh it, and overpay for it without striking up a conversation with a single person. However, when walking around the market in Valencia, I noticed that almost every single person was socializing with someone else, sometimes not even looking to shop.

After wandering up and down almost every single aisle for the past 20 minutes, I finally arrived at a booth near the right side of the market that had delicious-looking oranges and other citrus fruits. The prices were incredibly low and the quality of the fruit is unbelievably better than it is in the US, making this place one of the greatest places in the world to buy fruit. Although I was awfully anxious to indulge into my purchase of 2 oranges and a half-kilo of fresh strawberries, I decided to take my time and venture around the market a little further.

I wandered my way to a part of the market with a few stalls that were filled with a wide variety of meats ranging from sausages, rabbits, cows, and pigs. This is where I experienced a bit of culture shock. I walked up to the booths and saw a full pig’s head for sale, pig’s feet, full rabbits with their eyes still attached, and turkey heads hung by a steel rod impaled through their heads in order to hang them. Although I may find this very strange and unusual, I realized that this is just part of the Spanish culture and is actually very ordinary because it has probably been part of their culture for hundreds of years.

After I walked outside the most incredible market I have ever been in, I sat down on the steps and bit into the juiciest, tastiest, sweetest, freshest orange that I’ve ever eaten in my life. This is when I thought to myself how incredible it is that I am in one of the best market places in Spain eating a Valencian orange. It doesn’t get much better than to experience the culture of Valencia first hand, and I can’t wait to come back here later in my life to see if the culture has changed. My guess is that agriculture and the market place will still be at the heart of the city just as it has for hundreds of years.

The Ever Changing Valencia

The city of Valencia is a truly remarkable city by the sea. After spending three days there I experienced the city life, spending time at the beach, as well as seeing vast crop lands. The physical geography of Valencia is completely different than any other city I have visited in Europe. The city of Valencia has been changing significantly since the 19th century. It is apparent where the old medieval city was located within the city walls due to the unorthodox system of streets. Once one exits this confusing street system it is much easier to navigate because the streets appear to become more orderly. This is a similar case with almost all major cities throughout Europe which were founded during the early Roman Empire. Most medieval cities were clusters of streets with little to no order located around a central town square. Although the city has been expanding throughout the past hundred years there has been very significant changes which have occurred in only the past 20 years.
The most significant changes which have occurred in Valencia have been the urbanization of crop lands and the futuristic buildings by the architect Santiago Calatrava. These new and unique buildings were built in order to put Valencia on the map with the other larger cities of Spain. They built these structures for different reasons, such as to show they had the power and money to do so as well as to attract people from all over. Santiago Calatrava was an exceptional architect with a strong background in engineering which allowed him to build these magnificent structures. Here is a site which may be useful when traveling to Valencia and attempting to visit these structures http://www.valencia-tourist-travel-guide.com/. The people of Valencia now feel that these unique structures are the new symbol of the city rather than the crop lands which dominated the terrain for so long.
Due to the rapid expansion of the city, Valencia does not completely urbanize all of the croplands surrounding it. This is another reason why this city is so unique. One can be walking through the city near a large mall and before you know it you are standing in front of a large field. It is almost like a line which separates the city with the crop lands. These lands have become increasingly more valuable because they have been becoming smaller and smaller. It is amazing that even after hundreds of years the fields are still fertile. This is largely due to the magnificent irrigation system which was initially designed by the Romans but has been improved to perfection. Valencia is an extremely unique and diverse city which continues to grow and may become one of the major cities of Europe.

http://www.whatvalencia.com/history-valencia.html
http://www.valencia-tourist-travel-guide.com/history-of-valencia-spain.html

Gaudi: The man of my dreams

My favorite part of Barcelona was experiencing Gaudi’s architecture first hand. Now that I have seen Park Guell and La Sagrada Familia for myself, I consider it a must-see and highly recommend it to anyone visiting Barcelona.

Antonio Gaudi has been identified with the Catalan Modernismo movement of the late nineteenth century and has been claimed by Barcelona as one of its own. Especially during the economic trouble of Barcelona and its nationalist desires of the Catalonians, Gaudi prevailed in making Barcelona a well known city with beautiful architecture and landscapes.

Park Guell exceeded my expectations in every way possible. The park was designed by Gaudi to accentuate the natural landscape of Barcelona. Therefore, the platforms and stairs are built into the mountain, resulting in the most beautiful view of Barcelona. From different angles I was able to see the Mediterranean Sea, La Sagrada Familia, and the Collserola Mountains. This was the perfect view to see all of the geography that Barcelona is so proud to be built on as well as the geography resulting from the Catalan culture.

Antonio Gaudi is known for his organic designs and reflecting nature through his architecture. This can be seein in both Park Guell and La Sagrada Familia. Park Guell is lined with curved seating which is meant to represent a serpent. The walls are also made with broken ceramic tiles and put back together to make rich designs.

This was the most amazing part of the park, I could not get over the fascinating patterns and colors- my mind could not wrap around the fact that someone could dream something up so magnificent and put it into art. Also, the dragon marking the entrance of the park is made with the same ceramics.

Both La Sagrada Familia and Park Guell share the absence of straight line appearances. Guadi wanted to appeal to natural designs and lines, as well as incorporate the r

eflection of nature. There are sym

bols of trees in both locations. La Sagrada Familia reminded me of a giant sand castle with beach glass for the windows, it was a truly breath taking site. Also, because La Sagrada Familia is still under construction, it is a constant work in progress for Barcelona. It is an icon of their history as well as a reflection of their present

and future culture.

I was astounded by Gaudi’s design and his eye for organic, natural architecture. The colors were so bright and vivid, especially against the Barcelona landscape. Because Gaudi identified with the Catalan culture, these two icons are something that Barcelona can claim as their own and show off to represent their community. Each site marks the importance of religion to the Catalonians and can also mark the Catalan territory. Not only is Gaudi’s architecture another element to further divide the Catalans from other regions of Spain, but it is also a site that allows visitors to view the surrounding territory. The beauty is a must see.

Not Your Average Shopping Center

Oranges, fish, asparagus, dried fruit. To many Americans this list may seem like an average shopping list prepared before going to the local grocery store. At least, that’s what it meant to me, anyways, before our trip to Spain. In Spain, I learned that markets, rather than grocery stores, are where most local people do their shopping.
Markets in Valencia and Barcelona, however, are more than just a local shopping center, they’re a political entity, a place where relationships are formed and territories are created. Our first experience helped me realize this right away when we made a trip to the Mercado central, or the central market, in Valencia with our class. We walked in and immediately I felt overwhelmed with the extensive amount of vendors. Everywhere I looked transactions of all different types were taking place. Some vendor/consumer relationships were clearly more personal, while others seemed as though they had never met. The politics, we learned, go much deeper than that though because Spain is one of the only places where the economy is centered on supporting local businesses. In markets like the ones we visited in Valencia, we learned that people create relationships with the vendors and continuously go back to the same person time after time to get what they need. When we walked in, however, we did not know this. Instead we casually strolled around as people took turns stealing glances at the out of place Americans perusing the fresh fruit and Mediterranean fish. We obviously had not formed relationships so instead we looked for the brightest colors, the cheapest prices, and the friendliest people.
Locals seemed confused why we were there because typically the markets were not a tourist hot spot. To me, however, the markets were a world of their own. Each one we visited shed new light on the politics and economy of Spain and I knew that once we went back to Barcelona I would definitely want to visit a market to compare it to the ones we saw in Valencia. The markets in Valencia, where I purchased enough dried fruits and almonds to last me the rest of the trip, were beautifully constructed in a modernist style and were clearly marketed towards locals, rather than tourists. Prices were reasonable, fruits and vegetables were fresh, and people were friendly. These markets supply fish, seafood and meats for both domestic consumption and for restaurants. (http://www.alifeinvalencia.com/mercado-central-de-valencia-central-market/) To me, the markets in Valencia proved that while some parts of Valencia such as the Science and Industry museum and the Opera house might be moving towards a more 21st century, eccentric style, other parts, such as where the markets are located are still geared at supporting the local economy and staying true to their roots.
So as I said before, during our time back in Barcelona after our trip to Valencia, we decided to visit the market near our hotel. This time, however, we had a plan. Instead of mindlessly trotting around to the various vendors, we decided that we would buy ingredients to make guacamole. We knew that we would need avocados, tomatoes, jalapeños, limes, and tortilla chips so we grabbed our money belts and headed for the market. Before taking even one step into the market I immediately noticed that they were much different than the ones in Valencia. Rather than my eyes being drawn to the bright colors and fine delicacies, my nose was drawn to the dirtier, fishier smelling place that was much more directed at tourists than at local people. This fact could have been because La Boqueria, (the name of the market), was located on Las Ramblas, rather than in a central part of the city near the locals but it could have also been because the general atmosphere was much different. Everywhere I turned people were standing shoulder to shoulder trying to get the attention of the nearest vendor. We could barely find each other, let alone start to hunt for the ingredients for our guacamole. La Boqueria was also much different than the markets in Valencia. Rather than faces of confusion as to why tourists were visiting the local markets, vendors caved into the commotion and chose to yell things such as, “Hola! 1 Euro! 1 Euro!”. In addition to selling fresh fruits, vegetables and meats, vendors also sold smoothies, candy, and fruit salads that better appealed to tourists. Rather than give into the “touristy thing to do” we decided to stick with our original plan and find the ingredients for our guacamole. In no time at all we were able to find a small vendor way at the back that sold all of the ingredients that we needed for a very reasonable price. While La Boqueria, to me, seemed more aimed at tourists than the markets in Valencia, it still does contain a lot of history. As early as 1217 people started setting up tables to sell meat and in 1826 the market on Las Ramblas was legally recognized. (http://www.barcelona.com/barcelona_directory/monuments/boqueria_market)
To some these markets may simply be a place to buy dried fruit or ingredients for guacamole, but to me they were national symbols that helped me to learn so much about Barcelona and Valencia. These markets have turned into monuments that mark territories of their own. In Valencia, the markets represent a city that supports and is supported by local businesses, while in Barcelona, markets represent a place that is dependent on tourists but still supports old traditions such as supporting local vendors.

What it means to be Catalan: remembering the past, but struggling to move forward

Exiting the subway and making my way down a couple of side streets, I found myself facing an enormous challenge. What lay ahead was a street, half a mile long, heading up a giant hill. I had no idea where I was, but this is somewhere I would have never ventured if I were not on a study tour. For most college students, this would be off the beaten path as it is away from the beach. But as I made it to the top, I was rewarded. Atop was the Parc Guell and it was a beautiful site (http://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/gaudi/park-guell.html).

This park is a 20^th century residential development designed by Antoni Guadi (http://www.artchive.com/artchive/G/gaudi.html). His objective was to create an upper-class living quarters that viewed the entire city of Barcelona, while also capturing the Catalonian identity. The top platform is a giant flat area where a market can be held. The goods being sold range from jewelry, sunglasses, and art. Everyday, the market opens around 10am and there are about 50 independent vendors. To the rear, palm trees accent Gaudi’s architecture and transform the market into a garden complex. It gave me a very strong indication and reminder that I was in the Mediterranean and the Sea was not far.

The structure that initially caught my eye was the bench that lines the market to provide visitors with a seat to take in the view. I was able to experience the entire city from one place. I could see the Gothic Quarter, the modern skyscrapers, Sagrada Familia, and I was astounded by the detail. The bench is made up of thousands of mosaic tiles that are of bright color. The tiles are vibrant and produce pictures that symbolize Catalonia. This type of artwork can be traced back to when Muslims inhabited Barcelona during the invasion of the Iberian Peninsula between the 8^th and 13^th Century (http://www.spanish-town-guides.com/Barcelona_History.htm). Even though the Christians prevailed in the Re-Conquista, this influence has been ingrained in Catalonian identity, culture, and nationalism. For me, this was a great place to relax in the sun and listen to the finger plucked guitars playing Spanish music in the background.

Down the stairs, there is another market with more vendors generally selling the same products. But this is a shaded area held up by Doric columns that are 20 feet tall. This translates back to Catalans historical roots with Rome. In 218 A.D., Barcelona was a major port for the empire. It was rich because it could connect Rome with the Mediterranean. Gaudi thought it was important to Catalans history so he included it in the park.

Overall I thought this park was amazing visually and stimulated the senses. I saw architecture that was full of color and listened to music while basking in the sun. I began to understand what it meant to be Catalonian. They had a deep history with the Muslims, Romans, and the overall geography of the Iberian Peninsula. I could understand that they were proud of their identity and wanted to preserve it for future generations.

But then on the train from Madrid back to Barcelona later in the week, I had a conversation with Joan Llorach. He is Chief Executive Officer of Interactora and earned his MBA from MIT. He was proud to be Catalonian and his family could be traced back to Barcelona since 1540. But felt the fight for independence and the belief that Catalonians are different from Spaniards was worthless. He told me it was a waste of time, money, and resources. He explained that this identity had no real context and was an idea in people’s mind that they could not rid. Taking his point of view into context, I got the feeling that Barcelona and the rest of Catalan was in a struggle to cherish their roots or to move forward in the modern age.

To the average tourist like myself, I would be oblivious about Catalan and their separate identity (http://www.catalunya-nord.com/ang/thecatalanidentity1.htm). But this experience has led me to learn more about the subject. I think the park is a great way to visually see what defines Barcelona. I promise that the view will not disappoint either.

Ciudad de las artes y las ciencia

When I found out we were going to Valencia I expected it to be more like Brugee, focused backwards on preserving its history. While Valencia's old town continues to offer a strong living monument to its past what we found in the City was a strong mix of heritage and modernity far surpassing my original expectations. While I really loved the atmosphere of the old town I was struck by the City of the Arts and Sciences. Built as a place to further cultural development and serve as a monument to the past and future it is a grand assembly of buildings set into the city of Valencia in an old farming area. It is build into the river bed of the Turia (now rerouted) on the outer edges of Valencia the space created a link between the city center and the port areas. It was fun discovering the area on our own as we searched for the aquarium and was certainly interesting to find out the real purpose of the buildings. As we searched we assigned various nautical attributes to the different buildings designed by Santiago Calatrava, we eventually realized that they all reflected a nautical motif. The city within a city has come to serve as a symbol of Valencia is formed by five main elements that define the space the Hemisferic, the Umbracle, the Principe Felipe Science Museum, the Oceanografico and the Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia. We thought the beautiful landscaped umbracle was supposed to be a fishbone style building, turns out its a parking garage. The newly designed Agora is a multifunctional (mostly sports) space and even it conjured thoughts of a fish, a whale or a sinking ship. Interpreting these symbols was part of the fun of visiting the area.

One particularly interesting sight was the reflecting pool expanding out in front of the Science Museum, both a monument to the river that once ran through its location and a reminder of their Mediterranean background. While we originally guessed it was an Olympic swimming pool, at least we got the aquatic theme, it serves its intended purpose well as it guides your view in one direction to the Hemisferic an Imax center modeled off a steel eye and the first attraction to debut in the City of Arts and Science. Looking back the other direction past the El Puente de l'Assut de L'Or you see the Oceanografic, Europe's largest aquarium and definitely worth a visit. The 'Dolphinarium' put on a spectacular show that was a refreshing change from our usual concentration of cityscape. Even the architecture of the aquarium was designed to fit into the city of the Arts and Sciences with buildings designed by Félix Candela. Though a word of warning, some of these magnificent buildings were built more for splendor that purpose, the Agora has yet to be completed and apparently most of the money for the science museum was spent on its construction so unless you are very interested in the subject or have curious children traveling with you it offers it's best view out of doors. Nearby lays a protected agricultural zone showing a literal border which frames the old and the new. When the city was planned it started to be seen as a monument of the socialists though luckily for us when the Popular Party took over they only made a few changes and continued on to build this living monument. As the architect Calatrava said, “I am proud of the fact that people can walk through and around the main buildings without paying. It is a city to be discovered by promenading.”

http://www.cac.es/oceanografic/know/

http://www.spanish-living.com/regional/Valencia_city-of-arts-and-science.php

http://www.arcspace.com/architects/calatrava/camino_moreras/