Monday 14 June 2010

Out With the Old and In With the New

Americans and it seems that Europeans also, often identify themselves as being 'city people' or 'country people'. Personally, I cannot make up my mind. I left my small town after graduating high school to live in Boston, seeking street noise, big buildings, sophistication and all of the other stereotypical characteristics that I thought defined a city. One year later as a result of a number of reasons I found myself in Oxford, Ohio. I leave Oxford quite a bit to teach and I find myself appreciating the outlying farms and the country side within which a person can just be. Traveling to Spain, I suppose you could say that I 'met' a city that embodied the exact complexity with which I struggle: 'Am I city… or am I country?' Valencia seems to be in the midst of 'finding itself', which of course is an expression that typically describes a twenty-one year old like myself; however, traveling throughout the city I could actually see and feel a sort of tension or confusion amongst the landscapes and also amongst the people.
The study tour in Valencia provided me with the opportunity to view the epitome of modern Valencia through the City of the Arts and Sciences (official website of CAS) and also the ability to wander through authentic and beautiful marketplaces and stroll through an assortment of neighborhoods and charming plazas. These experiences were my first in Europe during which I was apart from tourist activity. I saw women buying their groceries at the market and men smoking pipes on the plaza. Our group composed almost the only tourists in sight and I found that I could actually see a city and its cultural significance and I could finally look around and observe without my vision becoming tainted by headless street actors and mass amounts of tourists. Because I was able to make more concrete and authentic observations, my most vivid images that were reinforced by our guided tours all revolve around the juxtaposition of tradition and modernity that can be found throughout all of Valencia.
Valencia's own renowned architect, Santiago Calatreva (http://www.spanishabroad.com/spain/Valencia/val_architecture.htm) designed the largely futuristic display of modernity that is The City of Arts and Sciences and contains a science museum, the largest opera hall in Europe, a giant aquarium and an impressive towering bridge. Prior to touring this area I climbed the narrow stairs of the Miguelete bell tower and witnessed a truly unforgettable view of Spain. The cathedral is Gothic-style and dates back to Roman times. What then symbolizes this third-largest city in Spain? As a group we talked about the evolving images on post cards that has taken place throughout the past decade and a half. Prior to the recent explosion in modern architecture and before Valencia poured billions of dollars into its push towards the future, one would buy a post card of Valencia with pictures of a giant paella, a white sandy beach or ancient beautiful churches and architecture. While I recognize the division and the dramatic contrasts between traditional agricultural life and rural living with skyscrapers and modern technology and architecture, I saw Valencia as a city that truly has the best of both worlds. The two 'worlds' can and do live side by side and I think that this complexity brings a beautiful mosaic to the city that is unique to Europe.



Traditional Valencia and the future of Valencia side by side.


The link below provides a sample of postcards from Valencia and it is interesting to note the differences in how Valencia identifies itself.
Valencia Postcards

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