Monday 14 June 2010

Not Your Average Shopping Center


Oranges, fish, asparagus, dried fruit. To many Americans this list may seem like an average shopping list prepared before going to the local grocery store. At least, that’s what it meant to me, anyways, before our trip to Spain. In Spain, I learned that markets, rather than grocery stores, are where most local people do their shopping.
Markets in Valencia and Barcelona, however, are more than just a local shopping center, they’re a political entity, a place where relationships are formed and territories are created. Our first experience helped me realize this right away when we made a trip to the Mercado central, or the central market, in Valencia with our class. We walked in and immediately I felt overwhelmed with the extensive amount of vendors. Everywhere I looked transactions of all different types were taking place. Some vendor/consumer relationships were clearly more personal, while others seemed as though they had never met. The politics, we learned, go much deeper than that though because Spain is one of the only places where the economy is centered on supporting local businesses. In markets like the ones we visited in Valencia, we learned that people create relationships with the vendors and continuously go back to the same person time after time to get what they need. When we walked in, however, we did not know this. Instead we casually strolled around as people took turns stealing glances at the out of place Americans perusing the fresh fruit and Mediterranean fish. We obviously had not formed relationships so instead we looked for the brightest colors, the cheapest prices, and the friendliest people.
Locals seemed confused why we were there because typically the markets were not a tourist hot spot. To me, however, the markets were a world of their own. Each one we visited shed new light on the politics and economy of Spain and I knew that once we went back to Barcelona I would definitely want to visit a market to compare it to the ones we saw in Valencia. The markets in Valencia, where I purchased enough dried fruits and almonds to last me the rest of the trip, were beautifully constructed in a modernist style and were clearly marketed towards locals, rather than tourists. Prices were reasonable, fruits and vegetables were fresh, and people were friendly. These markets supply fish, seafood and meats for both domestic consumption and for restaurants. (http://www.alifeinvalencia.com/mercado-central-de-valencia-central-market/) To me, the markets in Valencia proved that while some parts of Valencia such as the Science and Industry museum and the Opera house might be moving towards a more 21st century, eccentric style, other parts, such as where the markets are located are still geared at supporting the local economy and staying true to their roots.
So as I said before, during our time back in Barcelona after our trip to Valencia, we decided to visit the market near our hotel. This time, however, we had a plan. Instead of mindlessly trotting around to the various vendors, we decided that we would buy ingredients to make guacamole. We knew that we would need avocados, tomatoes, jalapeños, limes, and tortilla chips so we grabbed our money belts and headed for the market. Before taking even one step into the market I immediately noticed that they were much different than the ones in Valencia. Rather than my eyes being drawn to the bright colors and fine delicacies, my nose was drawn to the dirtier, fishier smelling place that was much more directed at tourists than at local people. This fact could have been because La Boqueria, (the name of the market), was located on Las Ramblas, rather than in a central part of the city near the locals but it could have also been because the general atmosphere was much different. Everywhere I turned people were standing shoulder to shoulder trying to get the attention of the nearest vendor. We could barely find each other, let alone start to hunt for the ingredients for our guacamole. La Boqueria was also much different than the markets in Valencia. Rather than faces of confusion as to why tourists were visiting the local markets, vendors caved into the commotion and chose to yell things such as, “Hola! 1 Euro! 1 Euro!”. In addition to selling fresh fruits, vegetables and meats, vendors also sold smoothies, candy, and fruit salads that better appealed to tourists. Rather than give into the “touristy thing to do” we decided to stick with our original plan and find the ingredients for our guacamole. In no time at all we were able to find a small vendor way at the back that sold all of the ingredients that we needed for a very reasonable price. While La Boqueria, to me, seemed more aimed at tourists than the markets in Valencia, it still does contain a lot of history. As early as 1217 people started setting up tables to sell meat and in 1826 the market on Las Ramblas was legally recognized. (http://www.barcelona.com/barcelona_directory/monuments/boqueria_market)
To some these markets may simply be a place to buy dried fruit or ingredients for guacamole, but to me they were national symbols that helped me to learn so much about Barcelona and Valencia. These markets have turned into monuments that mark territories of their own. In Valencia, the markets represent a city that supports and is supported by local businesses, while in Barcelona, markets represent a place that is dependent on tourists but still supports old traditions such as supporting local vendors.

2 comments:

  1. Jenna, I really liked you blog. I think you did a great job incorporating how different the Spanish markets are from what we are all used to in America. I like how you did some additional research in these markets, it really helped me understand more of the Catalan culture! Great job!

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  2. Great blog, I agree I really enjoyed the markets in Valencia over the one in Barcelona. The markets are so different than what we are used to but in a good way, it was a culture shock. I feel this is a very helpful blog which will serve as a description to people who have never been to one of these markets. Good work

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