After hearing good things about the Picasso museum (http://www.museupicasso.bcn.es/) from some friends, I decided to attempt to culture myself with an afternoon of art. What I really discovered was not a newfound appreciation for cubism and surrealism, but an area of the city more intricate and beautiful than what the Ramblas or beach could offer an eager tourist like myself.
The Meseu Picasso is located in an area of Barcelona known as La Ribera (a short summary of the neighborhood: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/barcelona/0045020048.html). Many have compared its atmosphere to that of SoHo in New York City because of its emphasis on fashion, unique cuisine, and forward-looking cultural approach. However, the architecture of La Ribera is far from modern; it was constructed as a residential and commercial area for wealthy Barcelonans in medieval times (around the 13th to 15th century). There is clearly a deep history embedded in the area, with several museums and even a gravesite of Catalan soldiers who died during the War of Spanish Succession. The Museu Picasso is situated in one of five medieval palaces that are adjoined in the district. Replacing the historical function of the medieval Catalan architecture with a breathtaking modern art exhibit created a uniquely Barcelonian experience for myself, and a newfound appreciation for a generally touristy and crowded city. La Ribera also provided a perspective on how past economies and values can hold strong and shape a city’s future image. This combination of history and modern commercialism produces a must-see destination for any tourist.
What impressed me most about La Ribera was its intimacy. The shops are small, the restaurants are authentic, and although it is a popular area, it was not flooded with the summer tourist crowds. Scholar Enric Bou describes a “funereal-like theatricality of the old Ribera neighborhood” he sees in a multitude of literary works dealing with the area. Even the simplest of experiences, like grabbing a slice of pizza, provided me with a look into the true nature of Barcelona that so many before have found in La Ribera. The place I visited was miniscule in structure, inexpensive, and had pizza with a distinct Spanish twist. I was the only non-native (or appeared to be) in the restaurant, which helped me polish my perspective on Spanish culture (still a work in progress). In the case of the pizza shop, I found that smaller, more intimate locations can tell the most about a city when experienced frequently and widely. Through the specific medium of cuisine, I was able to experience a facet of Barcelonian identity (including alcohol consumption, a preference for local ingredients, an inherent energy), even in a short period of time in a hole-in-the-wall pizza joint.
After my art viewing (by the way, I highly suggest the Museu Picasso), I continued to meander through the shops and restaurants in La Ribera, enthralled by the atmosphere and almost quiet nature of the narrow streets. I was disappointed I had not located this area earlier, but enlightened to the fact that finding the best a city has to offer often requires hard work and a willingness to venture from familiar surroundings. Barcelona seems to be a future-oriented city on the outside, but the identity and culture of the city lie within su
ch historical areas as La Ribera, which stand as an indicator of past culture, politics, and economy. The aesthetic pleasure of La Ribera coupled with the modern commercial intentions, helped to create a "real" Barcelona in my mind, one that I will remember and recommend to any future travelers.
My most memorable part of the weekend was also wandering around the narrow streets near the Picasso museum that were so different from the chaos of the tourism and tourist stands and mass amounts of people snapping pictures with headless men in Paella. I do think that from walking around those streets, shopping and tasting authentic chocolate con cherros I was able to experience the real Spain because we took a step away from the Ramblas.
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